Learn to choose the right board for you.
As you transition from a beginner to an intermediate surfer, you start realizing there is no “perfect surfboard”.
The more you surf, the more you understand how having a quiver of boards, meaning a variety of surfboards to your possession, can make surfing different conditions much more fun.
Surfboard shapes are all about compromise. Add volume, you gain floatation and stability but you lose manoeuvrability. Add rocker, you gain performance and responsiveness, but you lose speed and paddling into waves becomes harder. There’s no way around it. Understand how to pick surfboards according to 3 crucial factors: your weight, your surfing level and the surfing conditions you will surf in.