Learning to Surf: 5 Things to Know

Learning to Surf? There are some things that you really must know before getting into surfing. Things like understanding surf etiquette, knowing what surf spots to choose, and choosing surf equipment will make a massive difference in your enjoyment of the sport.

On our coaching retreats at Barefoot Surf, we’ve helped hundreds of beginners and intermediates surf better and have more fun. Here are the top 5 things we think beginner/intermediate surfers should know when they start surfing.

1. The Learning Curve

Before you start surfing, you must know this: surfing is probably one of the world’s most difficult and complex sports. Think about it. Not one wave is the same, so your playground is constantly changing. Elements such as wind, tides, and swells affect the waves you surf differently every single day.

It’s a very challenging and enjoyable learning process. Once you catch your first “green wave,” that’s it; you’re hooked! Knowing the learning curve helps you prepare your attitude and expectations toward surfing. Contrarily to snowboarding, for example, there’s no moment on the 3rd day where you think, “I got this,” and then rarely fall again. In surfing, you will wipe out for years, but that’s okay!

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2. The importance of your Surfboard

In most sports, having the right equipment helps you perform. But surfing is different. It can make the difference between surfing 20 waves or 0 waves in your session.

Choosing the right surfboard will completely change your experience. It’s not about having the “brand new model”. It’s about having the right volume, dimensions and rocker. The volume is the measurement of how much flotation the board has. It’s a function of length, width and thickness. When you start surfing, you want lots of volume.

Choose either a longboard or a foamboard; these are wide, thick, long and have a flat rocker. Our favourite boards for the first days are 7″ or 8″ foamboards that are very thick and wide but not too long, so surfers aren’t too prone to nose dive.

3. Choose the adequate Surf Spot

This is extremely important. It can determine whether you have the best or worst time ever. Many surfers will tell you: “Start on a beach break; it’s safer.” This is true, but only to a certain extent. Of course, falling on sand is better than on rocks or coral reefs. But the truth is, there are some sandy beach breaks for advanced surfers and some rocky point breaks that are great for beginner surfers.

To make things even more confusing, some spots can be perfect to learn on some days, and on other days, only be good for experts. It all depends on the wave conditions. To know if a spot is good for your level, you must look up the surf spot info and the daily wave conditions.

There are many surf websites and forums loaded with information on surf spots. Our favourite is Surfline because professionals write their articles and spot information, so their information is usually very accurate. As shown in the image below, Surfline gives various spot information such as ability level, local vibe, crowd factor, spot rating, etc.

Doing some research on the web is always good. But the best thing is to have knowledgeable and experienced surfers who have been surfing the area for a long time. They are the ones who can really tell you where to go according to your surf level.

4. Have someone show you the Basic Techniques

As seen in point #1, surfing is one of the most complex and technical sports in the world. Imagine learning the wrong basic techniques and then having to “unlearn” your bad habits before you can continue your progression.

Trust us; this advice comes from inland surfers who started to dedicate their lives to surfing later in adulthood. Still, today, our coaches make us realize we’ve learned certain things the wrong way, and it’s very difficult to change old habits.

The bottom line is: if you’re serious about learning to surf, learn it the right way. Have an experienced friend or surf coach show you the right basics for the first few days.

5. Learn about Surf Etiquette

There are many, many rules to go by in surfing: don’t paddle inside, don’t drop in, don’t snake, don’t ditch your surfboard, and so on. It may sound very confusing when you are new to the sport. Below are the top 3 things you should focus on. If you want to know more, watch our Surf Etiquette video for the Top 9 Rules you need to know.

Don’t Drop In

The drop in is definitely one of the most common violations of surf ethics. Basically, it means “stealing” somebody else’s wave. Quality waves are typically ridden by only 1 surfer. This way, the lone surfer can enjoy specific, powerful areas of the wave where only 1 surfer can fit.

So how do you know if it’s your wave or somebody else’s? When you paddle for a wave, look on both sides (right and left) before you take off. If a surfer catches the wave further inside, closer to the peak, they have priority. If you are closer to the peak, then you will be the one with the longest ride, so you have priority.

Choose The Right Spot For Your Ability

We have seen how to do this in point #3. This is a very important aspect of surf ethics.

Respect The Locals

If you are new to surfing, you might have yet to learn this. Every surf spot has its own “vibe.” Some spots are more “localized” than others. This means some local surfers are more “inviting” to strangers than others, and this varies in different surf spots. These surfers might have been surfing these waves for years since they were kids. When you get to a surf spot, take time to feel and analyze the vibe. Be positive, respectful and unselfish.